Sap may also flow heavily because of insect damage or fungal and bacterial cankers. This can result from the kind of injury that occurs when branches are broken in a storm or when lawn equipment hits a tree. Sometimes healthy plants drip small amounts of sap, so as long as the bark looks healthy, your tree is probably fine.Įxcessive sap loss is another story. Sap carries water and nutrients from the roots to all parts of a tree. Research has shown that most wound dressings won’t prevent decay, and some actually feed undesirable microorganisms. Unless you’re trying to control insects that carry disease, it’s not necessary to paint the pruning cut with tree paint or wound dressing. Leaving the branch collar intact will help prevent decay. Instead, keep the branch collar-the swollen area around the base of the branch-by cutting outside the collar at a 45 to 60 degree angle. Try to keep the tree’s natural shape, and avoid cutting the branches flush to the trunk, which may damage the bark. Use rubbing alcohol between cuts to disinfect your tools. Prune as needed, cutting back to healthy branches. Solution: Dead and dying wood is a magnet for diseases and pests, so it has to go. Problem: Dead, diseased and damaged branches. But getting your tree healthy again will take time, so don’t expect to see immediate results. In time, this symbiotic partnership between the fungi and the roots will reduce the tree’s need for fertilizer and may help it grow stronger and live longer. You want the water to penetrate to the subsoil-but apply it slowly enough so that it doesn't run off. Be sure to water the tree deeply and thoroughly when you add the fungi to the holes. In return, the roots feed the fungi with sugars. They’ll also help the tree resist some diseases, tolerate extreme soil temperatures and compete with turf grasses, among other things. These beneficial fungi help roots absorb water and nutrients. Next, fill the holes with a product that contains organic matter and mycorrhizal fungi. Drill dozens of holes, keeping them about 12 inches apart. If you hit a root, reverse the drill and try somewhere else. If there’s a permanent, hard material covering over the soil around the base, use an auger to drill lots of holes in exposed soil nearby. Solution: If the soil is compacted from heavy traffic or use, add a barrier around the tree or create a new path away from the base of the tree.
Is the ground at the base of your tree covered over with concrete, pavers, asphalt or other heavy material, or is there a lot of vehicle or foot traffic around the tree? If so, the soil may be compacted, and the tree may not be getting enough oxygen, water or physical space for its roots. Problem: Die-back of upper tree branches. Whenever you’re not sure what to do, check with your cooperative extension service for help. Check out this list to identify your pine tree’s symptoms and find suggested treatments. The Southern pine beetle, for example, is a highly destructive pest that affects pines in the Southern U.S., and often the only “cure” is to remove the infested trees.īut there are easier, less radical solutions to other problems. Sadly, sometimes pine trees can be too sick, stressed or damaged to save.
Brown needles, dead branches and oozing sap-if you know what to look for, you can often read the signals pine trees put out when they need help.
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